Many beekeepers like to utilize a queen excluder in their hives for many reasons which include:. The queen excluder should be placed in the hive above the first honey super. This should happen in the early Spring. The queen will begin to migrate to the bottom brood box once it begins to warm up. Before placing the queen excluder in the hive, be sure to find the queen and make sure she is below the queen excluder.
You will not want to place the queen excluder in the hive while it is still cold in the evening. The reason is that the colony and the queen are going to want to retain as much heat as possible during these cold nights. If you place the queen excluder in and it gets cold there is a possibility the queen will become frozen and die because she was trapped below the excluder. And I think you had mentioned it as far as cleaning off the burr wax using a heat gun after excess is scraped off.
Works perfect!!! And a queen excluder is NOT in any way a Honey excluder. I have never see bees go above an excluder during a nectar flow if all of the frames are undrawn comb. Good way to get honey bound in the brood box and bees swarm on you.
As a first year, let me know if this is bologna. After reading your adventures Rusty, I figured that the queen excluder is seen as a honey excluder because the bees have the tendency to naturally build up and down.
So without the excluder they would fill frames in 3 boxes. Thus with an excluder they would fill frames in 2 boxes before working the third box. Excluder between box 2 and 3. It helps prevent over harvesting. In that vein I figured I would use them for my, now 3, hives. Also, I caught my first swarm on Monday!
Swarm removal call. You are absolutely correct about this. The excluder encourages them to built out before up, which is very helpful for overwintering. Once the lower boxes are full, they will go up. You are a better and more patient woman than I am Rusty. To be asked questions that are easily answered by actually reading a book, would drive me insane. I find the best use for a queen excluder is to sieve the soil in my vegetable patch and not much else! This is letting my little secret out, but, I always use a piece of a plastic excluder strapped in front of a small size entrance reducer opening.
Held with a piece of twine wrapped around the hive box when moving a hive a short distance. I suspect it encourages most of them to do an orientation flight? Only three separate attempts so far but all have been successful. Will a frame of brood from one bee race be accepted by other race? I have two hives different races apis cerana asian and malifera europian. I want to raise new queen from asian bee hive, can I do it?
Races can generally interbreed, but it sounds like you want to cross two different species , A. That is something you probably cannot do. I doubt they will even raise a queen to maturity. I always wanted bees in my backyard, I got some lemongrass oil online, and put up 3 cardboard boxes at different places, spiked it with lemongrass oil. I went overseas for two months, When I got back all boxes have swarms.
I built wooden hives, and transferred the bees, I enjoy now watching them fly in and out, very active crowd. Waiting for the honey next year. Had brood in the honey supers mainly drone cells, decided to try queen excluders for the first time. I left the hives for three weeks then went to do an inspection. There were no live bees above the excluders, only hundreds of dead ones and the combs were untouched.
I removed the excluders to look below and found the hives to be extremely honey bound in the brood chambers. Finally, remember to always check the underside of the QE for the queen before setting it aside and continuing with the inspection. I have a couple from a well known USA company that have bee space on both sides.
And they claim to know bees! Not ideal, but not the end of the world either I guess. Irritating nevertheless. Preferable to what? Framed wire QE … Dual use …. Plastic lay flat QE …. Queen above the QE ….
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