Problem of surging in 93 mode is still there. Took to autozone and Firestone next door, neither scan tools revealed any codes. MIL is not and has never been illuminated. Stock mode is difficult to determine if surging Just weak. What do you guys think? What would be your NEXT steps? Last edited by Gingerkid; at PM. I'd start by changing the plugs, fuel filter, and clutch seriously. You need the first two anyway even if the clutch is the ultimate culprit.
I would lean more towards the fuel system on this one. I have not checked fuel pressure and honestly not sure how to accomplish that. I'm looking at the Audi maintenance schedule and don't see fuel filter mentioned anywhere I don't know why you haven't found it but you are suppose to be coming up on your 2nd fuel filter change.
I don't know the exact milage but I like doing mine around 45k miles but it might be 65k I am not sure what the book would say. If you think the clutch is slipping then test it out. Drive 40 mph put in 6th gear rev up to 5k drop the clutch, rpms snap back then it's fine if not then it is slipping.
Do you have any codes? Also timing belt is almost due, you have got to check your cam follower. What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it. Originally Posted by Gingerkid.
Check your cam follower and I'll bet it's wore through Replace this 25 doller part. It will fix it. GuruJGDH answered 3 years ago. I took it to Audit Hatfield the technician doesn't sound like he understood, he just sad the whole wiring should be replaced, which doesn't make sense to me Please help? Just changed my mechanical fuel pump and my car goes flat when it reaches speed of 70 to 80 miles.
Am due for oil change what u thing might causes it to do this? So I was driving the other day and my car lost complete power. Power steering went out dash light don't work and can't lock doors. Also the speed Gage will get stuck at the speed that the car shut For this the turbo will recover the exhaust gas, which it will filter and then it will compress the air to reinject it inside the engine.
So if the air pressure generated by the turbo is weakened by a clogged air filter or even a faulty turbine, your engine will also have less power.
Note that the turbo is greased by engine oil to allow good rolling. Therefore, make sure that you always have a good level of oil so as not to damage it more quickly. If you only make small trips in urban areas, it is possible that injector is clogged.
So it is not giving your engine the required amount of fuel, which could be causing a loss of power. To keep your injection system we recommend that you check your diesel filter from time to time. Indeed, the diesel filter offers the possibility of filtering the particles to prevent their insertion inside the injection system. When the latter is clogged it will lose its effectiveness. Likewise, avoid driving with the tank almost empty, as this could create corrosion and collect deposits at the bottom of the pump.
This could damage your engine prematurely. As indicated above, gasoline vehicles need spark plugs so as to create combustion of the fuel. So if these are worn and it pushes combustion, then this could de-synchronize the engine which will not be able to run at full power.
You will therefore have these sensations of jerking and chattering. EGR valve aims to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions from our vehicles by re-using them. Indeed it works in connection with the turbo so as to redirect part of the gas into the injector. Tame Technician 2, posts months. That sudden loss of power is most likely limp home mode.
If it had blown a boost pipe off or somthing, there would have been noise with it. Yes it can be caused by a failed turbo, when the variable vains stick in the wrong position. But it can also be caused by a number of different sensors going faulty giving an incorrect reading.
Is this the case?????? As ever first port of call is to read the fault memory and see whats stored.
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